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Showing posts with label paint. Show all posts
Showing posts with label paint. Show all posts

Friday, August 3, 2012

Painting Cabinets (or Furniture) Without Sanding

Boy, do I have a lot going on right now.  A LOT.  I'm starting to feel a little better....still nauseous, but it's nausea I can push through and function still.  At least during the day....evenings are a whole 'nother story.
Anyway, a friend of mine has some furniture she wants to update with a little paint, and I told her I'd give her my shortcuts to doing it....and I thought I should just write a blog post and share it with all of you too!

So back in February, I woke up in the middle of the night and decided I hated my kitchen cabinets and I was going to paint them.  For long time readers, you'll remember I spent a few months when we first bought our house sanding down and restaining those very kitchen cabinets.  Truth is, I was never happy with how they turned out, but after all the blood, sweat and tears (literally), I couldn't bring myself to admit it until months later!

These steps are specifically tailored to kitchen cabinets, but they can be applied to furniture as well.
So let's get started.  First things first, remove all the cabinet doors and drawer fronts, remove the hardware and take down all hinges.  Tape around the cabinet bases.  Then put down some plastic in your garage and lay out all those cabinet doors and drawer fronts.

This is our replacement sanding step.  With painting, all you need to do is dull the finish enough for the paint to stick, whereas with traditional restaining, you have to remove not only the protective top coat, but the original stain as well.  Hence the agonizing hours of sanding.
You need a deglosser.
Wear rubber gloves!  Pour some deglosser into a styrofoam bowl and use a cheap bristle paint brush to apply it to each of your doors, drawer fronts and cabinet bases in batches.  Let it sit for about 5 minutes, then come back with those gloves on and a good old fashioned Brillo pad in hand.
Using the Brillo pad, scrub all the surfaces you coated in deglosser thoroughly.  By using the Brillo pad along with the deglosser, you are smoothing things out a bit as well as deglossing the surface.  Flip the cabinet doors and drawer fronts over and repeat.
The deglosser will dry leaving a bit of a white residue.  That's okay, don't worry about it.

Next step: Primer!

I used an awesome water-based product by Zinsser, their Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer, designed to stick to any surface.  It's similar to their Cover Stain Primer, which I used when I painted my laminate bookshelves...but it's SO much better since it's water-based instead of oil-based.  Get a good quality angled paint brush and get the primer into the crevices.  Then pour around half a cup of primer onto a styrofoam plate and roll a high density foam roller into it, making sure to get an even amount of primer on your roller.  Then roll away.  Repeat as needed.  I only did one full coat of primer, but I made sure it was a good one!

And onto the Paint!
I used Valspar Signature Colors Paint and Primer in One, satin finish in Dove White.  I opted for paint plus primer because I was painting fairly dark cabinets with gnarly dark grain WHITE.  Even if your situation is different, I would still recommend the paint plus primer.  Just to be thorough.
Use the same angled brush then styrofoam plate and high density foam method.  This ensures you get light even coats with no globbies.  'Cause who wants globbies.
ALSO!  If you have oak with gnarly grain like I do, make sure you get the paint into all the grain!  Use the end of your foam roller to really scrub it in there...


Otherwise it will look like a cheap, poorly done paint job (like one of the houses we looked at during the hunting process...one of those houses that you can't believe anyone would EVER buy....)
Repeat the process as needed, making sure it dries thoroughly between coats.

Last but not least, top coat.
I used Valspar Clear Protector.  This stuff is awesome.  Apply it the same way as you did the primer and paint.  I did two coats overall, then three to four coats on the backside of the bar (where my children stick their grimy feet) and on the cabinet bases/door underneath the sink.  Just something to keep in mind, higher wear areas would benefit from an extra coat or two.

Once the top coat is thoroughly dry, you can reassemble your kitchen (or furniture!).

And for kicks, here is my kitchen in its many stages in the past year.



Tuesday, June 21, 2011

How to Paint Laminate



UPDATE: Just thought I'd give a little progress report.  It's been close to a year and a half since I painted these, and I'm happy to say they have held up beautifully.  Not a single ding, scratch or chip in the paint, not even on the lower shelves and doors where my kids' books and toys are kept (I most definitely credit THAT to the four coats of topcoat I did on the kid wear areas!).

Let's start at the beginning, shall we?  My mom loves books.  She taught me to love books.  We both own LOTS of books...and seem to think we need more!  When I got married, I inherited two of eight big laminate bookshelves from my parents.  They were in the process of building a big beautiful dream house in which laminate anything did not belong!  Over the years of my marriage, I've gotten a few more of those bookshelves here and there as we've had room.  And now that we've bought our own house, I've got all eight.
Which brings me to the fact that they are outdated ugly laminate.  Good lines, very big and sturdy.  Just ugly cheap looking laminate.
Enter Zinsser Cover Stain Primer.  This primer is like magic.  It's designed to stick to any surface without sanding.  ANY SURFACE!  Glossy laminate surfaces included.  And to top it off (haha! if you'll pardon the pun), you can use any kind of paint on top of it.

I primed, painted, glazed and top coated seven of the eight bookshelves all at once (one was in use, so it will get painted with the next wave of furniture), not to mention ripping off the old backing and replacing it with bead board.
So let's talk numbers.

For seven bookshelves, I used:
1.5 gallons of Zinsser Cover Stain Primer @ $16.97 a gallon
1.5 gallons of Glidden Dapper Tan in Eggshell finish @ $22.97 a gallon
1 quart Valspar translucent Mocha glaze @ $16.49 a quart
1.2 gallons of Valspar Clear Protector @ $20.97 a gallon
4 ft by 8 ft bead board panels @ $19.98 each
Smooth nap rollers for primer and paint
Paintbrush and rags for glaze
Semi smooth for clear protector
Foam brushes for the corners

Grand total: About $202 for what I used ($238.21 for what I actually purchased, but there is enough of everything left for the last bookshelf and some gallery wall shelves, as well as enough glaze and topcoat for four more furniture pieces I'm planning to paint).  I'd just like to say that it would cost $479.92 to buy eight of the cheapest IKEA bookshelves of comparable height and width (but not depth...these bad boys are MUCH deeper than IKEA bookshelves).  I'm just sayin'.

So here's what I did to paint my laminate:
First step:  Take off any decorative pieces that can come off (within reason...you're just trying to make the job easier, not harder).  Wipe everything down, let it dry thoroughly.
Second step:  Get the primer in all the nooks and crannies with the foam brushes, then roll the primer onto all the flat and semi-flat surfaces.  This miracle primer dries in about an hour, and then you can do the second coat!  I definitely recommend two coats, three in the corners.  Now, this is oil based, which means smelly and impossible to clean. So I also recommend using cheap rollers and foam brushes that you can toss after using.
Third step:  Same process for the paint!  Foam brushes in the corners, then roll the paint onto the other surfaces.  Let it dry as needed, then get that second coat on. Then finish off with a third coat in the nooks and crannies with your foam brush.
In my case, this is when I started painting the bead board, as it didn't need primer.
Fourth step:  Glaze!  Glaze is tricky.  It's a tacky (as in sticky, not as in tasteless) substance, and it can be difficult to get a consistent look when you're covering a large surface.  I tried out a few things in the process, and found the best method for this project was to brush it on, then wipe/rub with a slightly damp rag to get the worn, antiqued look I was going for.
The glaze has to cure for an entire week before you can put the topcoat on, so take a rest!  (which I would have loved to do, except by the time I finished glazing seven bookshelves, it was time to start with the top coat...)
Fifth step: Top coat. Oh, how I am in love with this top coat.  I highly highly recommend it.  I was afraid I'd have to use polyurethane, which is smelly, sticky and must be brushed on.  But this, this wonderful product can be rolled on just like paint!  Dries in about four hours, and then you can put on another coat.  I put one coat all over, then two coats on the top sides of the shelves (where the books will rub) and on the inner sides (where the shelves can be adjusted).  And three to four coats on the lower shelves and doors for the bookshelves going in the family room, in which my children's books and toys will be stored!
Sixth step:  Reassemble decorative pieces, and hammer the new bead board backs on.
Just to recap, Before:
And After!
And that's that!  It was definitely excruciatingly slow time consuming, but not difficult.  And the end result....it was more than worth it.  I'm pretty smug swaggering self-satisfied happy every time I look at them.  :)

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