It could have been easier than it was (that sounds familiar). But anyway, first things first, choosing that hardware. I recommend browsing some websites (Pulls Direct is where I ended up buying) to find the hardware you want, then Googling it to find the best price. I went with the Hickory Hardware Craftsman line, their round knobs and cup pulls, in highlighted oil-rubbed bronze.
these hinges, also from Pulls Direct. Can't beat the price on those babies. Oh, and make sure you count and double count and triple count how many you need of each! Trust me! (On the bright side, Pulls Direct has very reasonable shipping...)
Now, installing that hardware. Here are my hard-won tips:
- Make templates out of cardstock or posterboard, and tape them onto your doors and drawer fronts with painter's tape, so you know where to drill each time. (Make sure you measure and remeasure when making these.)
- You know the saying "Measure twice, cut once"....? Well, I would recommend measuring three times, then drilling! :)
- I held my cabinet doors down with one arm on my counter top, and making sure it was hanging off the edge, then drilled the hole all the way through with the other hand.
- Put the hinges on the doors next. The holes on my hinges lined up perfectly to screw them back onto the cabinet bases, but not to screw them into the doors. So I had to drill new holes. I put the hinge in place, then used a pen to trace each circle and drilled the holes. If you have to do this too, use a drill bit that is smaller than your screw, and position it in the drill so it does not stick out further than the length of the screw.
- You'll need two people to get the cabinet doors back on. One to hold them in place, and one to put in the screws. We usually got the screws started with the screwdriver and finished off with the drill. BUT BE CAREFUL. Go slowly, or it is very possible the force of the drill could break the head of the screw off, leaving the body of the screw embedded in your cabinet base. Which you will then try to get out by drilling more holes all around it and repeatedly yanking and twisting (and trying not to think in profanities). If this does happen, take a deep breath, then fill up that gaping hole with wood filler and move on until it is dry the next day. In all likelihood, the hinge will cover it up anyway, and as long as the other screws are secure, it won't matter that one of them is only anchored in wood filler. Trust me. (If you're really worried, do it by hand with a screwdriver.)
- On the drawer fronts, the screws must sink down into the drawer front so that nothing protrudes. The back of the drawer front must be flush against the drawer to reattach. This means after you drill the hole for the screw, go back with a larger drill bit, about the same size as the screw head, and drill right over the screw hole (MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS ON THE BACK!!!!!), down about an eighth or a quarter of an inch. (Or you could use a countersink drill bit, but since it was on the back of the drawer front where it wouldn't show, and I didn't want to buy one, I didn't.)
- Then attach the drawer fronts to the drawers, using the same screws they had before.
And you're done with the hardware!
Now just a recap of our shopping list for this step:
Pulls (make sure you count and recount!)
Hinges (if your old hinges don't match your new hardware)
Drill (consider renting if you don't own, can't borrow or don't want to buy)
Cardstock (to make template for drilling holes)
Next up, Step Six: Decorative Molding...